JGS9900BDS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

As others reported, there are 2 torx screws that need to be removed so that the burner element can be removed. One came out with a little effort, the other one did not as it was corroded. After breaking a torx bit, a second torx bit succeeded in breaking off the screw head. This then required a drill to drill out the broken shaft and then rethreading the screw hole. On to the ignitor replacement. The tiny screw holding the ignitor was corroded and would not come out. It too had to be drllled out and rethreaded. It was a 1/3" #4 screw with fine threads. Had to get it an appliance repair store as the local hardware places don't carry fine threaded screws. Finally got it all put back together after a week. My advice before ordering an ignitor is make sure you can take the current burner off the cooktop first to do the repair in the first place. BTW, the ignitor I ordered came quickly and was the correct part!

First I removed the lower tray and all parts covering the ignitor on the upper oven. 2. Then I removed the screws holding down the ignitor and flame distributor. 3. I then had to pull out the oven from the wall and remove the back panel to expose the wires connecting the ignitor. This required the removal of about six screws but they were fairly easy to get to. 4. I disconnected the ignitor from the back panel then went around to the front of the oven and pulled out the ignitor and all of the attached parts. 5. Here's the tricky part. The screws holding the ignitor in place had fused from the heat and then the threads stripped when I tried to remove them. I had to use a dremel tool and cutting wheel to carefully cut the screws off and then went to buy some replacement screws from the hardware store. 6. I replaced them with a nut and a bolt, to hopefully avoid the same problem for later replacement if necessary. 7. I then replaced everything the same way it came out and all is working like new!

First removed the old gasket using a needle-nose pliers. Then placed new gasket by inserting the little clips on the gasket. Took 5 minutes. Great instructions from Repair Forum.

This is fairly easy for anyone to do. First I opened up the front (silver part) of the oven door by removing the screws at the top and the bottom. Then I kept on removing the various layers of glass... the 2 outside ones are removed by removing their respective screws and then you get to the inner-most. These 2 inner ones are in a frame that holds them together. I removed the large silver frame that holds the insulation and the 2-glass-frame in it. Just remove the screws and then tilt the insulation frame out a bit to remove the glass frame. You can tilt the entire insulation holder out but the insulation is soft and it starts to fall off. Just tilting it enough worked for me. Then I opened up the glass frame from one end, removed the left-over broken piece of the old glass pane and installed the new one in. Then reassemble. The entire process is very easy - but you will need another person for a few minutes when you remove /reinstall the glass frame inside the insulation holder. You would just need a little help holding everything... nothing technical. I would rate the repair technicality at 4 or 5/10. It could even be a 3 if there were less steps involved. Good luck! By the way, Amana/Maytag wanted $70 or so for the glass and then the repair fee. I got the part here for about $50.

Lifted door off hinges; removed lower oven spill plate; unmounted bake igniter from heat shield; pulled stove away from wall; removed rear access panels (4 screws); unplugged bake igniter; installed new part; vacuumed behind stove and mopped floor (this took more time than installing the part); oven is back in cookie baking mode!

Firts I removed the 2 screws that held the burber in place. Then I lifted the burner up & disconnected the wire that connected to the ignitor. Then I removed the one screw that held the ignitor to the burner. I then reversed these steps, replacing the cracked ignitor with the new one, replaced the screw holding it to the burner, then reconnected wire, returned the burner to the stove and replaced the two screws that held it. All Done!

This problem was driving me crazy for months. Of course, after I bought and installed the part and it still was not fixed I finally found a website that told me how to fix the clicking. The problem is that the removable head burners (#8 on the top assembly diagram) are not making good electrical contact with the base burners (#22). What I did was grab the head burners and grind them back and forth into the base burners with the weight on the heal of my hand. Steel wool or sandpaper would work too--you just want to clean the surfaces to restore electrical contact.
If you still want to know how to replace the spark module start by removing #24. This will allow the removal of #9 (after you take the knobs off). You may have to do some fiddling cause the rubber gasket is sticky. Next there are 2 obvious regular screws for #14 and 2 not so obvious star screws in the space where the burner valves are. After #14 is off there are 2 screws on the spark module to be removed and one that you can't loosen that is in a slot. You wriggle the module out of that one.

- Removed the cover.
- Removed te two Torx screws.
- Pulled the burner a couple of inches to be able to disconnect the wire.
- Spent a lot of time removing the small Philips screw holding the ignitor. Ended up breaking the ignitor with pliers to be able to put WD40 under the screw's head.
- Treated all screws with a high temperature copper paste to prevent oxidation.
Installed the new ignitor with the new screw.
- Reconnected the wire.
- Installed the two Torx screws.
- Voila, it works.

removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by layer, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC

I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

Unscrewed burner head and replaced with new burnerhead and electrode. Just like new. Parts cost 128.00 including shipping. Very simple repair. Saved 200.00 in labor. Parts came within 36 hours. Super Fast.

Removed grate and burner cover (held on by gravity - no tools needed) then removed the two screws holding down the burner itself. These screws are Torx screws so you will need a Torx bit set (looks like a phillips head screw driver but is star shaped). Once these screws are out, the burner lifts off to reveal two phillips head screws holding the ignitor in place. Remove these two screws, un-plug the ignitor, plug in the new ignitor and replace the two screws holding the ignitor in place. Be sure to have the ignitor centered. The first time I put the new ignitor in place, it was touching the frame of the stove, so it failed to spark since it was grounded. Replace the burner and two torx screws and replace the burner cover and grate. Done and done.

removed panel from back 4 screws. unplugged ignitor wire to lower level of upper oven, top wire is for broiler.Slid oven door off its hinges(very heavy)removed wire rack removed 2 screws from bottom pan lifted out,lifted off burner guard, looks like it may have had nuts to hold it down at one time , mine were missing. lifted out burner assembly. removed 2 screws holding down ignitor, they stripped out had to drill holes slightly larger and install new one with screws and nuts I had on hand. Used long screw driver pushed in from behind to guide ignitor wire back thru the insulation. reinstalled everything in reverse and it worked like a new. $50 part part saved us $2000, we were looking at replacing it with a new oven but we really liked what we had. Very satisfied, and wont hesitate to tackle next repair job with help from this web site.

easy-peasy remove small panel on back
disconnect in the back of range-oven "orange wire"
unscrew igniter from burner inside oven
remove and replace with new one
slide wire thru hole in back of oven
reconnect---u r done
dave

place new ones in by hand. the new ones fit too loose and if not carefull they will fall out.